Andrew Santoso

Hookah With Uyghurs

"Guess where we're from," one of the girls asked us.

My friend and I were drawing blanks. We were in China. They looked Middle-Eastern. But they spoke fluent English and Mandarin.

"Hm, Iran? Lebanon?" I guessed.

"No—it's hard right? We're Uyghurs."

Ah! I'd never met a Uyghur before. I'd only heard about the atrocities and the alleged genocide.

I wanted to pry more. But I held off. They'd just waved us over to their table a minute ago.

Later, I eased in with an innocent question,

"How's life in Shenzhen? Is it a good place to live?"

One of the girls replied,

"For everyone else, yes. But for us—it's hard. I got instantly denied an apartment five times because of my name. I'm not allowed to leave the country. The government thinks I won't ever come back. And when I travel inside China, the CCP checks in on me at my hotel. I am constantly watched. I have less freedom than a regular Chinese citizen."

"Wow." I replied.

I took a puff of the strawberry-flavored hookah. The smoke seemed to linger longer than usual, just like the words she'd just spoken.